Saturday, January 28

Bahhhh-th.

Total friend count: 12
That's right, 12. Today I met a new friend, Thomas.



I happened upon Thomas as I was wandering around the Royal Cresent in Bath this afternoon. In his top hat, cape, and Hessian boots, he was hard to miss.
I couldn't help but smile and say hello, and before I knew it - I was getting my own private, bespoke tour of the Royal Cresent from an English Dandy! What luck!

Thomas studied 18th Century history at university in Bath, so he was a complete expert on the subject, and he actually gives tours for a living. He was on a break between tours when I met him, and kindly offered to share some of his knowledge with me.
He knew all the history, gossip, scandals, and stories behind the original residents of what is still one of the most expensive addresses in the UK.

If you don't know, the Royal Cresent is this incredible road made up of 30 houses and is among the greatest examples of Georgian architecture in existence. It's called the cresent because of the cresent shape the houses are laid in - but I like to call it the Royal Croissant instead, since I am French.



Now I happen to know quite a bit about architecture from my days studying it in Paris, but whether you know nothing or you know loads - it is absolutely gorgeous! The homes each contain about 5 bedrooms and the interiors all have various features - from a private catholic chapel to a swimming pool. The lucky residents range from celebrities to Dukes.
No 4 is currently on sale for £4 million. How fitting.

In front of the Royal Croissant is a gorgeous, semi-private park. I say semi-private because there are two levels, one that is for the public, and one keyed-entry for the owners of the homes on the croissant. They are separated by a small wall, which Thomas told me is called "the ha-ha"

As you can imagine, there is a story behind that name.
The park used to have sheep grazing in the public section, which the residents of the croissant quite enjoyed. However, they did not enjoy when their royal toes accidentally stepped in the sheep droppings. So, they had their portion of the park raised up and a small, almost invisible wall built so the sheep couldn't get up to the private area, but could still be seen from their oversized windows. From their part of the park, you couldn't there was a separation at all.

Below is a photo for reference.

The wall, which you can't see in the photo, is just along the left side of that un-mowed strip.

This became quiet a problem from the residents who entered the park after having a tipple or two, and drunkly fell off the private part, over the wall, and into the sheep - causing everyone else to laugh "ha-ha."

So, they croissant residents made yet another demand. There was to be a patch of un-mowed grass to serve as a warning that the wall was near. Thus saving them from falling over and escaping the humiliation of the ha-ha's of their neighbors.

Absolutely brilliant.
This is the sort of thing that went on in Bath in the 18th century.
This is why Jane Austen lived, and wrote about Bath. With material like this, it's no wonder she became a famous author.
She actually lived just south of the croissant - I passed by her old address as well as the Jane Austen museum. But I am not one of those girls who is obsessed with Mr. Darcy, and I only had a few hours to see the whole city - so no, I did not go in.

While my bespoke croissant tour was definitely the highlight of my trip - I enjoyed every moment in Bath. (Pronounced bahhh-th by the way) You have to make the bahhhh sound, like a sheep, before you add the "th" on the end. This could just be due to the English accent, but I think it's also in honor of all the sheep in Bath, past and present. I didn't get to go into the actual baths, but I did pay 50p to try the water, straight from the ground - which was awful. It's full of 20+ minerals and apparently healing powers - but it tasted like ocean water and was hot. They typically make it into tea to improve the taste, but I can't imagine that would help.

Bahhh-th was not the only wonderful place I visited today. I spent the morning in the English county of Wiltshire, in complete awe of a monument built sometime around 2000 B.C. Try doing anything like that in the United States.

I'm talking about Stonehenge, who's purpose still remains totally unknown today.
It was quiet a site to see on a foggy, frigid, English morning. Although it didn't stay foggy for long.




That is the UK version of sun-soaked. I think I got a bit of a tan today.
My favorite bit of the Stongehenge tour was actually our guide telling us how he used to frequent the area in the late 60s when it was Hippie central, and you could actually walk right up to the stonges. or lay on the stones, do drugs and play guitar, as he said.
You also could rent a hammer and chisel, and actually chisel away a chunk of one of the stones as a souvenir!
The rules have gotten a bit more strict since then -there is a strict no chiseling policy, and the closest you can get to the stones is about 50 feet away.

I had no idea that Stonehenge was only a stone's throw from London! It was so lovely to leave this morning and spend the day immersed in the English countryside. England is so small that you can get to all these wonderful little places in an hour or two, and see a some beautiful landscapes on the way there. There is so much history here to see, so all day I just kept grabbing brochures so I know of other things to do and see. I want to explore every nook and cranny of England before I leave, so that I can be somewhat of an expert on England like my new friend Thomas. Then all I will need is a chemise, a corset, and a petticoat to start my own tours of Bahhh-th. And possibly a sheep.

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